New car and need to care for the paint...
well as ive read so far it can be as indepth a process as you want it to be... and as expensive as your willing to imagine.

Basic Products used are Meguiars found at www.meguiars.com.au
Products to look for would be NXT 2.0 wax and the Gold Class Carnuba.


For a hardcore look into what products to use when detailing your car go to

• https://www.waxit.com.au
• http://www.pakshak.com

Below is a qoute taken from a forum thread regarding basic car care

first off, the end result of waxing is ALL about the prep. this includes the wash, dry, and claybarring (which is a very very good thing to do, just this alone will make your paint look and feel a whole lot better, it creates a non-contaminated finish to apply your wax to.)

first things first, best way to keep your car looking clean is to prevent micromarring/swirlmarks... these arent as apparent on lighter colored cars, sometimes completely hidden by silver, but micromarring will gradually cause the finish to dull.
put simply, the best way to prevent micromarring is by washing and drying carefully and with the right tools, (aka, use a quality wash mitt, turn it often, go in straight lines when lathering up the car,[you dont want to rub that dirt and dust all over the paint] always rinse it in a bucket of clean water seperate from your soapy water to keep the dirt from getting back on your cars surface and being rubbed in..)

i would strongly recommend drying with a high quality waffle weave microfiber towel... i wouldnt pick one up at a car parts store unless you have to, as their microfiber isnt exaclty the best, there are several websites however that offer MF towels at good prices.. pakshak.com autopia car car and some other. even using a cotton towel can cause horrible micromarring that will be very apparent on black cars. neevverr use beach towels!!! old laundry does not make good drying cloth! use MF if possible, or at the very least, 1000% cotton.

ok, now, to clarify something, POLISHES are not wax, not do you apply it over the top of a wax. Polish is like very fine grit liquid sandpaper. you usually apply this by machine (like the porter cable 7424 buffer for like 80$ at homedepot) or sometime by hand. what it does is when you rub in the polish, it gradually sands a super thin layer of your clear coat off causing the top of the paint and the bottom of light scratches and swirls to get levelled out. you usually start off with a medium cut polish for minor swirlmarks and then finish with a fine cut polish/glaze.. just like if you were sanding anything else, you start roughest and finish finest. but always start with the least roughest possible and decide from there whether or not you need to get more aggressive.

once you have polished the paint and levelled all scratches and swirls, (note: if you can feel a scrraatch with your fingernail, polishing will NOT remove it. this is for the swirly, holographic sometimes, spider web looking scratches in your paint that you usually see in the sun) you can apply a wax. the paint will be very clean and smooth and waxing is absolutely a must to protect your new finish from the elements.

heres where this thread comes into play... it all depends on what you want with your wax.. from what i have heard and tried, the best thing to do is to start off waxing the car with a wax known for its longevity... this would be something like Zaino or maybe NXT if u cant get zaino or klasse. these waxes are very durable and last a long time but mostly lack the depth and wetness of carnuba waxes (aka mothers and meguires solid waxes that come in the tubs) its best to wax the whole car per the instructions with at least 1 coat of the durable synthetic wax, then after it has cured (day in between coats and 2-3 coats is best i think, anything more doesnt seem to help.) after your synthetic has cured, you can follow up with just about any carnuba wax to get that depth that the synthetics just seem to be missing. carnubas dont last very long at all however.. I personally can tell about after a week that my carnuba has evaporated off. i usually wash each weekend and apply carnuba again, then every 6 months to a year i will strip off all wax (even the durable stuff) and start over.

a good combo might be NXT topped with meguires gold class. I would suggest not using liquid waxes whenever possible, because they are liquid at room temp makes me assume that they will evaporate rather easily and they never seem to last quite as long as the solids. paste wax is alright but i think the tubs with solid wax always fare the best.